A New AC Installed Right — Nitrogen-Tested, Deep-Vacuumed, Charge Verified.
Most comfort problems trace back to a sloppy install, not the equipment. We do the steps that get skipped — pressure-test the lineset with nitrogen, pull a deep vacuum, and verify the refrigerant charge against the manufacturer's spec — so your new system runs quiet, efficient, and lasts.
- ✓Nitrogen pressure test for leak-free linesets
- ✓Deep vacuum to pull out moisture and air
- ✓Refrigerant charge verified to manufacturer spec
- ✓Photos and readings saved to your invoice
Free in-home estimate — no pressure.
What a Big Air install includes that most don't
The equipment is only half of it. These are the steps we do on every install — the ones a rushed crew skips — so your new system runs right and keeps running.
Nitrogen flowing while we braze
Keeps the inside of your copper lines clean while we solder them together.
Nitrogen pressure test for leaks
We pressurize the lineset with nitrogen and confirm it holds — so we know it's leak-free before any refrigerant goes in.
Deep vacuum before charging
We pull a deep vacuum to remove every bit of moisture and air from the lines before we release the refrigerant.
Filter drier mounted indoors
We put it inside when we can, so it stays out of the heat and is easy to service later.
Manufacturer best practices, by the book
We install to the maker's own instructions — not by feel — so it runs the way it was designed to.
Real startup readings, saved for good
We take and record the numbers at startup so we have a baseline for every visit down the road.
We check your drain and your ducts
We make sure your ductwork can move the air, your drain can handle the water, and the new system actually fits.
We fine-tune the metering valve
After startup we adjust the TXV so the system feeds in exactly the right amount of refrigerant.
Backed by a 12-year parts & labor warranty
Install it right and stand behind it. Qualifying Daikin systems carry 12-year parts and labor coverage — proof we're confident in the work, not just the equipment.
On qualifying Daikin systems: parts under Daikin's limited warranty and 12-year labor through a Daikin ASURE plan. Annual maintenance is required to keep coverage active. See agreement for full terms. Other brands carry their own coverage — Trane, Ruud, and Goodman include a 3-year labor and 10-year parts warranty.
Why these details matter
None of this is filler. Each step protects the money you're putting into a new system — here, in plain English, is what each one actually prevents.
Nitrogen while brazing keeps your copper clean inside
When copper is heated with a torch and oxygen is present, it forms a black, flaky scale (cupric oxide) on the inside of the pipe. Once the system runs, that scale breaks loose and travels with the refrigerant and oil — where it clogs the tiny opening in your metering device and scores the compressor. Flowing nitrogen through the lines while we braze pushes the oxygen out, so the inside of the pipe stays bright and clean instead of growing scale you'd never see.
A nitrogen pressure test proves there are no leaks — before charging
Before a single ounce of refrigerant goes in, we pressurize the new lineset with nitrogen and confirm it holds — a standing pressure test that proves the system is tight. It is far cheaper and easier to find a loose joint now than after the system is charged and running: an undetected leak means lost refrigerant, weak cooling, and a callback weeks later to hunt down a problem that should have been caught on day one. We would rather prove it is leak-free up front.
Pulling a deep vacuum removes the moisture that quietly destroys systems
After the leak test, we pull a deep vacuum on the lines to boil off and remove every trace of moisture and air before we release the refrigerant. This step is critical: if moisture is left inside, it mixes with the refrigerant oil and turns it acidic — and that acid attacks the system from the inside, leading to coil leaks and, eventually, a burned-out compressor. Trapped air also raises operating pressures and steals efficiency. Pulling the system down to a proper deep vacuum is a big part of the difference between a system that lasts well over a decade and one that fails early for reasons you would never see.
An indoor filter drier protects the compressor and stays serviceable
The filter drier is a small canister on the refrigerant line packed with desiccant and a fine screen. Its job is to capture moisture, neutralize acids, and trap debris before they reach the compressor — the most expensive part in the system — where moisture freezes at the metering device and acids attack the windings. Mounting it indoors keeps it out of the Florida heat and sun and somewhere a technician can actually reach it, so when it's time to replace the core, it's a quick service call instead of a wrestling match outside.
Following the manufacturer's specs keeps the warranty valid
Every system is engineered to be installed a specific way — line sizes, clearances, charge, airflow. Installing to those published specs, to the number, is what keeps the manufacturer's warranty in force and lets the equipment actually deliver its rated efficiency and capacity. Cut a corner and you can void coverage and lose performance you paid for. We follow the manual so the system performs to its rating and your warranty holds up if you ever need it.
Documented startup readings give you a baseline that proves it's right
At startup we measure and record the system's vital signs: superheat and subcooling (which confirm the refrigerant charge is correct), static pressure (how hard the blower is working against your ductwork), the temperature split between the air going in and coming out, and the compressor's amp draw. Together these prove the system is charged and running the way it should on day one. Saving them also means that at every future visit we can compare against the baseline and catch a problem early — while it's still cheap to fix — instead of after it has done damage.
Checking load, ducts, airflow, and the drain means the system actually fits your house
A new system is only right if it matches your home. We look at the cooling load (the industry calls it a Manual J calculation), whether your ductwork can carry the required airflow (Manual D), and whether the equipment is the correct match for both (Manual S) — plus that the condensate drain can carry the water away and the unit physically fits. Get this wrong and an oversized or duct-starved system short-cycles: it blasts cold, shuts off before it has pulled the humidity out, and leaves your house cool but clammy — all while wearing itself out and failing early. Sizing and airflow done right means even temperatures, dry air, a drain that keeps up, and a system that lasts.
Adjusting the TXV after startup dials in the refrigerant flow
The TXV (thermostatic expansion valve) is the gatekeeper that meters refrigerant into the indoor coil. We verify and fine-tune its superheat after startup so it feeds in exactly the right amount: too little and you lose capacity and efficiency; too much and liquid refrigerant can flood back to the compressor and wreck it. A few careful adjustments — measured with the panels buttoned up, the way it actually runs — get you full cooling, lower operating cost, and a compressor that's protected.
0% financing, up to 24 months
A new system runs roughly $8,000–$15,000 depending on size and equipment, and your free in-home estimate gives you the real number with no surprises. Spread it out with 0% financing for up to 24 months through Wisetack — subject to credit approval.
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